Jana (age 14) reports from Greenland
 
July 16, 2002  hey hey  reached nuuk this afternoon, and am writing from restaurant. passage was swift but weather unpleasant, and am doubting that will ever be completely dry again. have taken showers and arranged laundry. chuck is spending the night at a sailor's motel to rest his larynx and nerves.
 
nuuk is decidedly larger than all previous towns combined, but quiet just the same. is very european, excepting eskimos, of course. inuit are absolutely beautiful, and more friendly than the vikings, who look as though they are ready to don their horned helmets and impale us on one of their whale harpoons. speaking of which, just consumed hearty dinner of musk-ox pasta. dad and nico had whale, which tastes of fatty steak. have yet to find out what sort it was.
 
must return to deserts. they are only giving us fifteen minutes on the computers and dad is waiting.
 
July 18 - is raining again, but less cold than at sea. use of wood chips in heating stove has created log-cabin appeal and aroma. dad preceded us to the library, and in his absence a customs-man arrived with questions concerning the precise amount of drugs we wished to declare. dad is going to meet him this afternoon to fill out forms. most peculiar that he is suddenly interested in us, as yesterday when dad went to harbor-master with our passports, he was greeted with friendly but complete indifference.
 
we are rafted to a large fishing boat named "viking...(something-in-danish)." vikings themselves are rarely present, and otherwise not sociable. dad and nico investigated yacht club, which is ten miles from town and has no more facilities that our present location, so we are staying put.
 
have explored downtown area and discovered:
 
german-dutch supermarket stocked with digestive cookies and danish blue cheese. got orange juice, too, but half was lost in efforts of getting it to the boat in yesterday's gale.
 
a music store with which nico was quite disappointed because they wouldn't let him play the guitars.
 
an inuit disco full of smoke and swedish techno-music
 
that is the extent of nuuk's modern attractions. of course, there is always the sea and icebergs and mountains leaping out of the ocean, but they are generally obscured by fog and rain.
 
chuck is becoming increasingly hoarse and has moved from the seamen's lodgings to a four-star hotel. we are eating dinner there tonight and will probably use his shower before we leave. am wondering whether he will feel at all compelled to return to the crew.
 
computer keyboards have funny danish things on them: æ å language is hardly similar to dutch at all. both danish and greenlandic are so foreign that we have a difficult time discerning them from one another on the radio. fortunately, most of the locals are reasonably well acquainted with english.